As far as capital cities go Malta's capital, Valletta, is comparatively tiny and yet its ancient city wall contains a wealth of history and culture.
The poet Lord Byron once described Valletta as a "city built by gentlemen for gentlemen" and with its glorious golden stone buildings and elegant Renaissance streets it is not hard to see why. Although the city was badly damaged during World War Two the town's sixteenth-century roots are still evident today.
Flanked on either side by stunning, natural harbours, Valletta was built on a narrow peninsula by the Knights of Malta as a fortress. The massive ring of impenetrable bastions and fortifications create an imposing first impression, however, once inside the walls the city unfolds into a grid of graceful honey-coloured streets.
At the heart of Valletta is Republic Street, or to give its Maltese name Triq Ir-Repubblika, where stately palaces line the street and the magnificent St John's Co-Cathedral looms over the city. The cathedral is one of Malta's must sees, its austere exterior belying its dazzling interior. Described as one of the world's finest Baroque churches, St John's Co-Cathedral is still owned by the Knights of Malta and houses treasures such as paintings by Caravaggio and tapestries with designs by Rubens and Poussin.
By day Valletta is buzzing with activity, the steep, cobbled side streets that lead down to the harbour are bustling, the glorious vintage buses trundle along the roads and visitors spill out of cafes as they sit and people-watch along the pavements.
However, come nightfall and the city becomes strangely quiet. Other than a few restaurants Valletta all but shuts down in the evening and, as the city has very few residents, once the workers leave, the streets gradually empty. Any idling visitors will find they have this miniature metropolis to themselves and may discover that this somnolent city still dreams of the bygone era of its Knights.
